Banarasi Saree – The Timeless Weave of Varanasi
- Siddhi Prada
- Mar 6
- 4 min read
Updated: Mar 10
1. Name & Origin
The Banarasi Saree, also known as Banaras Brocades and Sarees, is one of India’s most revered handwoven textiles. Originating from Varanasi (Banaras), Uttar Pradesh, this saree embodies the grandeur of India’s textile heritage. The art of weaving Banarasi sarees dates back to the Mughal period (14th–17th century) when Persian influences fused with Indian craftsmanship to create these intricate, gold-embroidered silk sarees.
Recognized for their opulent zari (gold and silver thread) work, floral and foliate motifs, and Mughal-inspired designs, Banarasi sarees have been an essential part of Indian bridal trousseaus and cultural celebrations for centuries. The craft is predominantly practiced in Varanasi, Azamgarh, Chandauli, Jaunpur, Mirzapur, and Bhadohi, which are officially designated as the GI (Geographical Indication) region for Banarasi sarees.
2. Unique Features
Banarasi sarees are prized for their luxurious silk, intricate patterns, and exquisite gold and silver brocade work. One of their defining features is the intricate zari work, woven with real gold and silver threads, lending them a rich and regal appearance. These sarees are heavily influenced by Mughal artistry, featuring floral and foliate motifs with Persian influences, such as the iconic "kalga" and "bel" patterns. The "jhallar" border, a string of upright leaves along the edge, further enhances their elegance. Known for their compact weaving, Banarasi sarees have a dense, heavy texture with detailed craftsmanship. They come in different weaves, including Katan silk (pure silk sarees), Organza (Kora) Silk(featuring intricate zari patterns), Georgette (a lighter, more fluid fabric), and Shattir (modern Banarasi designs).
Within these weaves, several subcategories add to their variety—Jangla sarees are adorned with heavy floral patterns across the fabric, Tanchoi sarees use extra weft silk threads for a textured, luxurious feel, Cutwork sarees offer a more affordable alternative to pure brocades, Tissue sarees shimmer with gold-wrapped silk threads, and Butidar sarees feature a unique blend of gold and silver zari, famously known as the Ganga-Jamuna pattern.
3. Making Process
Crafting a single Banarasi saree is a labor-intensive process, often taking 15 days to 6 months depending on its complexity.
Step 1: Designing the Pattern
A master craftsman, known as a Nakshaband, creates the design on graph paper.
Step 2: Dyeing the Yarn
Pure silk threads are dyed in vibrant colors before being woven.
Step 3: Preparing the Loom
The loom is set up with a Jacquard mechanism, which allows the intricate motifs to be woven into the fabric.
Step 4: Weaving the Saree
Weavers use the Kadhua technique for detailed, raised patterns, ensuring durability and finesse. Each saree passes through multiple artisans specializing in weaving, embroidery, and finishing.
Step 5: Final Touches
After weaving, the saree is polished and inspected for quality, ensuring its signature shine and durability.
4. Impact of GI (Geographical Indication) Status
Banarasi Sarees were granted GI status on September 4, 2009, under the registered name "Banaras Brocades and Sarees". This recognition ensures that only sarees woven in the designated six districts of Uttar Pradesh can be sold under the Banarasi label. Employs over 1.2 million artisans directly and indirectly. The industry supports handloom clusters across six districts. Banarasi sarees have a global demand, particularly in luxury markets.
Artisans are transitioning to natural dyes to reduce environmental harm. Government schemes support handloom revival and artisan welfare. Initiatives like the Handloom Mark and Silk Mark help preserve authenticity.
5. How to Identify Authentic Banarasi Sarees
Reverse Side Weaving – Genuine Banarasi sarees have intricate threadwork visible on the backside.
Zari Composition – Real zari is made of silver or gold-wrapped silk threads. Fake zari feels plasticky and fades over time.
Fabric Texture & Weight – Authentic Banarasi silk is dense and has a rich drape.
Handloom Marks – Look for the Handloom Mark or GI certification for authenticity.
Ring Test – Pure silk glides smoothly through a ring, while synthetic fabrics bunch up.
6. Challenges
Machine-made sarees sold as "Banarasi" threaten artisan livelihoods. Fake Banarasi sarees made from synthetic materials in Bihar, Surat, and Bangladesh dilute the brand value. Weavers struggle due to low wages and lack of youth interest in the craft. Rising silk and zari prices make handwoven sarees expensive. Despite the Handloom Reservation Act (1985), many imitations flood the market.
7. Fun Facts
A single Banarasi saree can take up to six months to weave!
Mughal Emperor Akbar was instrumental in popularizing Banarasi brocade.
Bollywood and Indian fashion designers frequently showcase Banarasi weaves in haute couture collections.
The Jangla pattern was historically woven for royal court garments.
Ralph Fitch, an English traveler (1583), described Banaras’ weaving industry as producing “fabric fine as a spider’s web.”
References:
1. Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act 1999 (India)
2. Handloom Reservation Act 1985 (India)
3. Office of the Registrar of Geographical Indications, GI Application No. 99 for Banaras Brocades and Sarees(Geographical Indications Registry, Government of India, 2009) https://search.ipindia.gov.in/GIRPublic/Application/Details/237 accessed 24 February 2025.
4. Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, Handloom Census of India 2019–2020 (2020).
5. Uttar Pradesh Handloom and Textiles Department, Banaras Brocades and Sarees GI Registration Report (2009).
6. Syed Jahid Abdullah, ‘Impact of Geographical Indication Tag on Banarasi Brocade and Sarees’ (2023) International Journal for Multidisciplinary Research 5(2), 1-9 https://www.ijfmr.com/papers/2023/2/1837.pdfaccessed 24 February 2025.
7. Hansika Bajaj, ‘The Role of Geographical Indication in Preserving Traditional Crafts: The Case of the Banarasi Sarees Industry’ (2024) Khurana & Khurana Advocates and IP Attorneys https://www.khuranaandkhurana.com/accessed 24 February 2025.
8. Binay Singh, ‘Banarasi Silk Gets GI Recognition’ The Times of India (Varanasi, 18 September 2009) https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/varanasi/banarasi-silk-gets-gi-recognition/articleshow/5023601.cmsaccessed 24 February 2025.
9. Varanasi District Administration, ‘Banarasi Saree’ (District Portal, Government of Uttar Pradesh, 2024) https://varanasi.nic.in/district-produce/banarasi-saree/ accessed 24 February 2025.
10. ‘How to Identify Genuine Banarasi Fabric’ (Singhania’s Fabric Blog, 28 August 2024) https://fabricbysinghanias.com/blogs/fabrics-journal/how-to-identify-genuine-banarasi-fabric accessed 24 February 2025.
11. ‘Banarasi Sarees: Weaving Heritage into Fashion’ (Fabric by Singhania’s, 2024) https://fabricbysinghanias.com/collections/banarasi accessed 24 February 2025.
12. Ralph Fitch, Observations on the Cotton Textile Industry in Banaras (1583–1591), cited in Wikipedia, ‘Banarasi Sari’ (Wikipedia, 2024) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banarasi_sari accessed 24 February 2025.
13. United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD), ‘Supporting Geographical Indications: The Case of Banarasi Silk’ (2008).
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