Pochampally Ikat – The Pride of Telangana

1. Name & Origin

The Pochampally fabric and sarees derive their name from their place of origin, “Bhoodan-Pochampally,” which is located in the Bhuvanagiri district of Telangana. This textile is a form of Ikat tie-dye, exclusively produced in India. The Ikat patterns on Pochampally fabric are distinguished by their geometric motifs and are renowned for their color-retaining properties. Telangana is one of the oldest producers of Ikat in India, alongside Gujarat and Odisha. The town of Pochampally alone has thousands of looms and units dedicated to creating these textiles. The art of weaving Pochampally Ikat has been passed down through multiple generations, with families preserving and continuing this rich tradition. Pochampally has also gained global recognition and was declared the world’s best tourism village.

The Unique Ikat Patterns

2. Unique Features

Pochampally Ikat is widely known for its traditional geometric patterns created using the Ikat style of dyeing, locally referred to as "Paagadu Bandhu" and "Chitki" in Telangana. This method involves tie-dyeing the warp and weft threads before weaving them together, a technique globally recognized as double Ikat textiles. The fabric used is primarily cotton, silk, or a mix of silk and cotton (Sico). The weaving process ensures that the intricate geometric designs remain sharp and vibrant. The natural movement during weaving creates a signature feathered edge effect, which is unique to this form of Ikat. Additionally, the Pochampally Ikat is durable, and its colors remain bright even after extended use. The government of India issued a postal ticket worth INR 5.00 in 2018 in recognition of its cultural significance.

3. Making Process

The production of Pochampally Ikat is an intensive, handcrafted process involving multiple intricate steps:

Step 1: Yarn Selection & Tying

Artisans choose silk, cotton, or a blend and meticulously tie sections of the yarn with a resist material to prevent dye penetration.

Step 2: Dyeing

The tied portions retain their original color, while the exposed sections absorb vibrant dyes. This process is repeated for multiple colors.

Step 3: Weaving

After drying, the dyed threads are meticulously aligned on handlooms to ensure that the pre-determined patterns emerge seamlessly during weaving.

Step 4: Finishing

The final fabric undergoes washing and quality checks to enhance its texture and durability.

4. Impact of GI (Geographical Indication) Status

Pochampally Ikat was the first handloom product in India to receive a GI tag in 2004 (Application No. 4), legally recognizing its authenticity and origin. The renewal of the GI tag in 2023 underscores its enduring cultural and economic significance. Over 5,000 looms are active in Pochampally, sustaining livelihoods across 80+ villages. The handloom sector generates over ₹100 crore annually through domestic and international markets. Pochampally exports its fabric globally, including special exhibitions and fairs abroad.

Traditional natural dyes and organic materials are being revived, reducing synthetic waste. The GI status promotes ethical, handmade textiles, discouraging mass-produced imitations. Efforts are underway to introduce a trademark for Pochampally Ikat, ensuring customer awareness and preventing duplications.

5. How to Identify Authentic Pochampally Ikat

With increasing imitations, knowing how to spot an authentic Pochampally Ikat is essential:✔ Double Ikat Pattern – The design is embedded into the yarn before weaving, not printed or embroidered.✔ Blurred Edges – Genuine Ikat patterns have a slightly feathered or blurred look, a result of precise tie-dyeing.✔ Handwoven Texture – Unlike power loom products, authentic Ikat has a slightly uneven, handcrafted feel.✔ GI Certification – Look for the official Pochampally Handloom Weavers’ Cooperative Society label.

6. Challenges

Despite its legacy, Pochampally Ikat faces several challenges:

• Rampant Imitation: Cheaper machine-made replicas from Gujarat and Odisha threaten local artisans.

• Lack of Enforcement: Minimal state or central government intervention to protect weavers’ rights.

• Declining Weavers: Younger generations are shifting to alternate jobs due to unstable incomes.

• Modernization Challenges: Traditional weavers struggle to compete with power loom textiles.

7. Fun Facts

• Air India cabin crew sarees are specially designed Pochampally Ikat silk sarees!

• Pochampally village was recognized as one of the Best Tourism Villages in the World by the United Nations in 2021.

• A ₹5 postal stamp was issued in 2018 to honor the Pochampally Ikat weaving tradition.

• "Teli Rumals", the famous silk kerchiefs from Pochampally, were once exported to the Middle East and even Europe!

References

1.     Paris Convention for the Protection of Industrial Property 1883, Articles 1(2) and 10.

2.     Agreement on Trade-Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS), 1994, Articles 22-24.

3.     Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act 1999 (India).

4.     Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, ‘Facilitation of IPR Protection through Geographical Indications: Pochampally’ (27 April 2015) http://textilescommittee.nic.in/services/geographical-indications#pochampallyaccessed 24 February 2025.

5.     Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, ‘GI Research: Pochampally’ (12 May 2013) http://textilescommittee.nic.in/GI-Research.htm accessed 24 February 2025.

6.     The Hans India, ‘Pochampally Ikat GI Tag Renewed for a Decade’ (14 December 2023) https://www.thehansindia.com/news/cities/hyderabad/pochampally-ikat-gi-tag-renewed-for-a-decade-844981accessed 24 February 2025.

7.     Telangana State Handloom Weavers' Cooperative Society, ‘Pochampally Ikat - GolkoCrafts’ https://tsht.telangana.gov.in/GolkoCrafts/category_ikkat.html accessed 24 February 2025.

8.     Incredible India, ‘Pochampally Ikat’ https://www.incredibleindia.gov.in/en/telangana/pochampally-ikat accessed 24 February 2025.

9.     Pernia’s Pop-Up Shop, ‘Pochampally - Telangana’s Textile Heritage’ https://www.perniaspopupshop.com/encyclopedia/telangana/pochampally accessed 24 February 2025.

10. Wikipedia, ‘Pochampally Sari’ (Wikipedia, last modified 2024) https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pochampally_sariaccessed 24 February 2025.

11. The Hindu, ‘Pochampally Sarees Go Places’ (17 January 2004) http://www.thehindu.com/2004/01/17/stories/2004011702920300.htm accessed 24 February 2025.

12. The Hindu Business Line, ‘Pochampally Silk Sarees for AI Air Hostesses’ (9 February 2004) http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/2004/02/09/stories/2004020901281300.htm accessed 24 February 2025.

13. Asia InCH, ‘Paagadu Bandhu Yarn Tie Resist Dyeing of Telangana’ https://asiainch.org/craft/paagadu-bandhu-yarn-tie-resist-dyeing-of-telangana/ accessed 24 February 2025.